Curse of the Ortolan

Bruant ortolan noyé dans de l'armagnac pour la préparation de l'ortolan à l'armagnac, dans les Landes, France. (Photo by François DUCASSE/Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images) | Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images

Recently, Eric Stephen made the following observation on BlueSky, referencing the extinct dodo bird in relation to MLB physical tickets.

I was going to respond, but then I realized I could channel my inner Brennan Lee Mulligan and tie together a couple of stories I had been meaning to write about, as I stumbled upon all this information across various threads, which I now combine into a single article of moderate success.

In other words, if I had to go down a rabbit hole on a train of thought, I now share what I found with everyone.

Eric Stephen is not alone in missing physical tickets. With the rise of smartphones and the MLB Ballpark app, the march to an all-digital baseball experience seemed inevitable. Rebecca Tauber of The Athletic recently covered how the COVID-19 pandemic accelerated this trend.

Digital tickets became increasingly common in the 2010s, with the rise of smartphones. The convenience of a digital ticket was clear; no need to worry about losing a physical ticket. Security concerns persist — digital ticket theft remains a risk — but digital ticket holders typically have stronger buyer protections, especially in the resale market. If stadiums were already heading in an all-digital direction, the pandemic hastened that change. Like restaurant menus and MetroCards, the world went digital and never returned.

But the desire for paper tickets persists, and not just among fans without smartphones.

While one can use the MLB Ballpark app as a digital record of attendance and travel, there is something to be said for having a physical reminder of an outing. On a surface level, it would seem an apt analogy for MLB physical tickets and the now-extinct Dodo, but ultimately, looks can be deceiving.

Pity the Dodo

In order to understand the true comparison, we must first detour to examine the poor flightless extinct bird. The Dodo was killed off by a combination of overhunting by the Dutch in the 17th century. The Dodo did not stand much chance in hindsight, as the birds were unused to humans, and the invasive animals the Dutch brought with them, like cats and dogs, also drove the bird to extinction.

Perhaps it was this shortsighted mindset that led the Dodgers to try to deny longtime season-ticket holder Errol Segal his physical season tickets earlier this year. Why honor a relationship where there is a quick buck to be made?

Alex Rozier and Robert Westermann of KNBC Channel 4 reported on the story in early April about how the Dodgers initially refused to print Mr. Segal’s season tickets. In the initial report, Mr. Segal eventually went to the ticket office to receive four physical tickets and had previously paid a surcharge for his season tickets because he lacked both the ability and the equipment to handle purely digital tickets.

It’s not that the Dodgers couldn’t print his tickets; it’s that they wouldn’t.

Two weeks later, after public outcry, KNBC reported that the Dodgers relented.

The team had initially offered to buy the tickets back from him, but Segal refused….

After his story was seen by millions online, the Dodgers changed their minds.

“It makes me so happy when I hand them the ticket and the smile on their face,” Segal said. “There’s nothing like an original paper ticket.”

The faithful Dodger fan now looks forward to cheering his favorite team on in person.

What Mr. Segal failed to realize was that physical tickets are now essentially a luxury item and another source of revenue for teams. So if the Dodo is the wrong bird, and you have taken notice of the title, you might be asking yourself a very obvious question.

What is an ortolan?

An ortolan is a small, endangered European songbird that, like the dodo, eaten by man. Where one can understand that 17th-century sailors might not have been fully aware of or understand conservation efforts, modern chefs cannot claim the same excuse.

Modernly, ortolans are usually drowned in brandy, which serves as both a method of dispatch and a marinade, and is eaten whole by diners minus the beak.

It is generally illegal to eat these birds, as morally dubious chefs used to blind them, tricking them into thinking it was perpetually nighttime, allowing them to gorge themselves to double or triple in size. Traditionally, one wore a napkin over one’s face when eating ortolan to capture all the flavors and hide one’s shame from God.

These birds have been featured as a minor plot point on shows like Billions, Succession, and Hannibal. Accordingly, consumption of these birds has led to an entire mythology surrounding their consumption as a status symbol for the “morally flexible,” ultra-wealthy, which is a tautology if ever there was one.

Even with the consumption of the palm-sized bird being outlawed since 1999, estimates suggest that about 30,000 ortolans are consumed in France annually, with each bird sold for around 150 euros. Whether these birds are doomed to extinction is an open question outside the scope of this essay.

Ortolans and Paper Tickets

For those straining to see the connection, paper tickets were once given freely and were not status symbols or sources of extra revenue for teams, unlike now. However, tnlike the songbird, no one will generally judge a person for obtaining a paper ticket.

There is even a boutique market for creating commemorative paper tickets. Once again, Ms. Tauber:

In the collectibles world, the market for paper tickets pales in comparison to items like sports cards or game-used equipment. Of course, pieces of history fetch a price, like a 1947 ticket stub from Jackie Robinson’s debut, which sold in 2022 for $480,000, and a 1984 ticket from Michael Jordan’s debut, which sold that same year for $468,000.

Some stadiums will still print tickets on demand; sometimes, fans can pay extra for printed tickets for special games. But many don’t print tickets purchased online for everyday games, disappointing fans who want a built-in souvenir and driving up the cost for the rare stub from a noteworthy occasion. Paper tickets from Konnor Griffin’s Pittsburgh Pirates debut on April 3 against the Baltimore Orioles (only available at the PNC Park box office for an additional fee), for example, are currently selling for hundreds of dollars in good condition.

And as interest in paper tickets has persisted — possibly more for nostalgia-fuelled souvenir collecting than actual utility — some artists and businesses are trying to fill the gap. Entire souvenir companies specialize in printing commemorative ephemera, including fake versions of paper tickets to a concert or baseball game a fan might have attended, as well as digital tickets. One website, The Creative Lane, sells custom commemorative tickets for $8.99 to $10.99.

(Emphasis added.)

I can attest to this highlighted fact in my travels. I bought commemorative tickets that either used the honor system of where I was sitting in Arizona (Walker Buehler’s near no-hitter in 2021) and San Francisco (NLDS Game 2) or insisted on accuracy by checking my MLB Ballpark app before selling me a ticket (Arlington 2025).

For Ohtani’s 50/50 game, the Marlins were just selling tickets off a reel with no rhyme or reason for seats in the upper deck, which was closed off during the game, and an area where no one sat. And yet I bought two, selling one for cost to another fan I ran into at the hotel in Miami who could not wait in the lengthy, impromptu line for a souvenir physical ticket.

While the Giants sold an official commemorative ticket, I had to get creative for Game 7’s ticket, using an eBay vendor to source a facsimile.

Considering how hard the Blue Jays have been leaning into “AL Pennant” winning promotions, one would imagine that had Game 7 gone the other way, the amount of merchandise would be enough to float the finances of the province of Ontario.

At the end of the day, one should not have to go through as many hoops to eat an endangered songbird to get a paper ticket, as one act is decadent and monstrous, and the other is the collection of a bygone memento to indicate how one enjoys their fandom.

I will leave it to you, dear reader, to identify which topic is which.